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Dinner at Trapeznaya

August 9, 2009

I ate dinner in Suzdal (with Tolstoy’s War and Peace as my only company) at the Kremlin Trapeznaya, inside the Archbishop’s Chambers, which has been serving food for 300 years. And that amount of practice shows in the tastiness of the food (which in Russia is a welcome surprise!). I started with bread, beer, and the best borsh I’ve had in Russia (or anywhere else, for that matter) yet. My main course consisted of two pork chops baked in a crock with potatoes and apples, all bathed in a thick roux with shredded carrot and garnished with parsley, tomato slices, a rose carved from a pickle (this IS Russia, remember?), and some tasty but bitter orange berries that looked like huckleberries. It was finished off with two blini dressed in a sauce of butter, honey, and sour cream and a cup of espresso (which, when coupled with my snoring hostel-mate made for a long, wakeful night followed by hundreds of rooster calls in the early dawn of the Russian summer). Served by my personal waiter. All for the equivalent of less than thirty-five bucks.

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